Things to Remember When Shooting Your Subjects

Positioning Your Subject

When you are zooming in and out, focusing, and thinking about aperture, ISO, and shutter speed, it is easy to forget about your actual position; however, this is not always the case; Try moving closer or farther away from your subject to see how that affects your photos. Also, see how your results change when you shoot from different angles. Concerning distance, it is preferable to be extremely close to the subject in macro photography, whereas in portraiture, it is preferable to be far away.

Capturing Movement

The camera’s Tv or S mode, or shutter speed priority mode, is a semi-automatic mode that lets you manually adjust the shutter speed while automatically adjusting the aperture. The majority of cameras have a shutter speed of between 1.3 and 1/2000 of a second, which is measured in fractions of a second. Which setting to use is determined by the subject’s speed and the desired effect: The shutter speed must be as quick as the subject in order to “freeze” a moving subject; If you want to show a trail, like water flowing, it needs to move at a slower speed than the subject. Just keep in mind that our hand’s imperceptible shaking cannot be captured at some shutter speeds (usually after 1/60 of a second); When working with them, a tripod is preferable to avoid blurry results.

Focusing on Your Subject

A semi-automatic feature is the camera’s aperture priority mode, also known as Av or A mode. In this mode, the lens’ opening can be manually controlled while the shutter speed is automatically adjusted. When set to the appropriate values, it produces backgrounds and foregrounds that are out of focus. The effect, known as bokeh, has a very professional appearance and is particularly suggestive because it emphasizes a particular subject in the image. In most cameras, aperture is measured in f-stops, which typically range from f/2.8 to f/22: For blurred effects, higher aperture values (shown by smaller numbers) are required.


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